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November 27, 2005

The Old Man and the Mountain

I'm assuming this story will appear in the Ulsan Pear (newspaper). Since my friends and family that don't live here won't have a chance to read this nice article, I'm posting it here:


"A path gently covered in this years fallen leaves leads up a stone staircase, the sidewalls built with skill and love. At the top of this trail one might find a pleasant afternoon of rock climbing, only a short drive from the hustle and bustle of bbali bbali Korea. Rising on the shoulder of Munsusan are the cliffs that allow an escape from modern machine-made madness, away from the clamouring crowds ironically trying to find some solitude during a day's hike. On a clear day the city, and the ocean beyond are revealed; to the south, the majestic peaks of Naewonsan rise.

Surrounded by beauty and majesty sits one man, who weathers typhoons and winters. Like a spirit from classic mythology, he is an old man of the mountain. He is a strong believer in Buddhism; so strong that he has neither a name nor an age, he simply is. The Old Man stepped out of society and moved to Munsusan 3 years ago, and has not left the mountain since. He lives on Munsusan, and specifically at the feet of the cliffs, because he believes that the rocks of the mountain have a very strong spirit of the Buddha. The mountain is like the body of the Buddha, and the cliffs are like his face. The spirit is so strong that he wants to protect the rock, and connect with it. The Old Man lives on the mountain to study, not books or people, but Buddhism.

He survived typhoon Maemi, which was the worst recorded storm in Korea’s long history. Comfortable and content in all seasons, Buddha protects him, as he tries to protect the mountain. His family lives in Ulsan and visit him on the mountain. He eats only rice and noodles, refusing even naturally grown fruit and vegetables, which would upset the purity of his body. To protect Buddha, he must have a pure body. When he needs food, Buddha provides and a truck arrives on the mountain with a bag of rice for him. He has no needs, and no wants.
Munsu Mountain is home to two temples today, and the ruins of at least two others. The mountain has been recognized since early Silla times, when Buddhism first came to this part of the world, over 1500 years ago. The warmth and power the rocks emit is still present today. There are some holy caves on Munsusan that candles and incense are continuously lit in, carrying prayers on their flames.

A special note to the rock climbers: The rocks at Munsusan are considered holy. The Old Man has no problems with people climbing them; in fact he is down right hospitable. But, he asks that everyone remember that the cliffs are the face of the Buddha, and to drill a bolt, write a route map, or deface the rock is defacing something holy. Bolting the rock is piercing the face of Buddha and will bring misfortune to the driller. Even paint will bring misfortune, until it has been removed. This is a sacred place, and all should respect that.

I came away from my interview with a warm feeling from meeting this nameless man. Like stepping into and out of a myth during a lunch break. Special thanks to Chung Eun Young who translated, and of course, to the Old Man on the mountain. "

by Fin Madden

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